Credits

Credits

Tell us about growing up with gabber and how it inspired this collection.
[When I was] a 9-year-old boy, my family and I went shopping and I picked up a CD called Thunderdome #7. This was a compilation CD with all the biggest hardcore gabber tracks on it. It was such an inappropriate CD for a 9 year old, but I’m thankful now. At the time, the gabber scene was really becoming a big thing in Holland, and I remembered looking up to the real gabbers; they looked real cool and tough. The wardrobe of the gabber was pretty strict; it all came down to an over-priced tracksuit from the brand Australian or a Cavello bomber jack, Nike Air Max Classic b/w shoes and silver necklaces with the Figaro chain. So of course I begged my mom to death to get all of these and succeeded, but there was one more key to the gabber look and that was to shave my head bald. This is something my mom would not let me to do to my long blond hair. So I chose an alternative which was called the Rotterdam style, where you would have the sides shaven bold and long hair on top of your head, slicked back with a lot of gel. I thought she wouldn’t notice if I would dress my hair down, but she did. But there was no stopping me; I kept doing my hair like that! I remembered going to a youth base where they would play loud hardcore music and had a lot of strobe lights and they illegally would deal XTC. I was way too young but sneaked in if the social worker who was on watch was gone. That was pretty intense. I was about 11, and everybody in there 16 to 20. When I was 13, I sneaked out of the house and went to real raves, but when I was old enough to legally go to ravesm the original gabber scene was not the same as it used to be. The wardrobe changed, and the scene became more skinhead and aggressive.

Love how every single girl at the ’90s gabber party in this video is wearing a sports bra. What year is that? Is it in Holland?
This is at the Tunnel of Terror at Mystery Land, probably around 1995. It´s an big outdoor commercial rave. Hardcore gabber music was created at the moment XTC hit the house scene in the early ’90s.

I guess Holland even today is the biggest supplier in XTC. At raves people who took a lot XTC stood in front of the speakers drugged out their minds, raving the night away. But the thing is with this drug that you never experience it as strong as the first time, so they gradually would take more and more when going to parties. So, all pumped up, they would tell the DJ to play their music faster and faster. Most of the rave DJ’s were opposed to the music going up to 160 BPMs, so a small group of them would take their new music to underground parties, mostly at illegal locations like bunkers and old abandoned buildings. Eventually the music became a huge successm and they ended up doing big commercial festival like raves called Thunderdome, Mystery Land, Hell Raiser.

Where did you grow up?
I grew up in a little place called Eibergen in the Netherlands; it’s in the so-called backyard of Holland where actually never anything happens. My dad owned a toy store, and because of that I never took too much interest to toys; the real presents where when my mom brought home new clothing. Those were the best!

You seem really consumed by athletics. We love how sporty your clothes are. What’s your relationship with sports?
The collection is a stylistic portrayal of gabber. It is sporty since I tried to stay close to the wardrobe of the gabber, which only consists of sportswear. I am not that sporty a person and remembered somebody telling me that she never expected by the looks of me that I made this collection. Then again, I do love all the trademarks of sportswear: the technical fabrics and their vibrant colors, the textures and strength, zippers, mesh, stretch waistbands, and its youthfulness.

How did you do your casting?
There is this profile site called Party Flock, and it has an online agenda for raves and such, so that is where I ended up finding actual gabber girls. It is a small group, but I was lucky with these beauties.

What’s going on in the Dutch fashion scene?
Well I still live in Arnhemm which proclaims to be the new fashion capital of Holland, but I see more chances abroad so I am focusing on my own work, living a kind of bit sheltered in this fairly quiet city. I have a nice house with an atelier, which kept me from moving out right awaym but I will move abroad within a year. It’s inevitable.

Who are your Dutch contemporaries?
Meinke Klein, Maarten van der Horst, Levi van Veluw.

What’s next for you?
I am going to do an internship at Nike EMEA; that’s the European HQ. After an internship at Thom Browne, which I did in my third year of the Art Academy, I decided I want to do something totally different and see how such a huge company as Nike works. I love their image and always feel so professional when I gear up in my Nike running apparel!

Growing Up Gabber: TOMNIJHUIS’ Childhood Playlist

TOMNIJHUIS collection photography and .gifs by Meinke Klein.

Credits

But it's now now, and as the trend toward customization, personalization, and hybridization has grown, so have the myriad ways of switching up the arrangement and function the products in our lives and on our bodies. Here Visual AIDS and Australian styling team Pageant join forces to show how old style options can get new style encryptions simply by rewriting them in reverse.

Credits

Concept/Direction Sam Hancocks

Styling Kate Reynolds and Amanda Cumming with assistance from Hugh Egan Westland
Photography Jo Duck with assistance from Kathryn Vinella
Makeup Blondie
Talent Chelsea Scanlan

Special Thanks Alice Edgeley, Magenta Burgin, Nina Ratsaphong, R-U-IN?S Network, Kane Ludic and Ashley Munns

No scrubs! Having just EX-foliated their boyfriends ('Pouf! Be gone!'), Sammi Jack and Jo pine for a frillier but less complicated age with pink synthetic loofahs. Carolina, not one to indulge in such exquisite agony, wears a natural loofah. Tutu by Capezio, plastic and lace skirt by Gerlan Jeans.

Barbara and Veneisy share more than their secrets with their conjoined Bless sweater. Barbara wears Levi's shorts from Urban Outfitters with Doc Martens. Veneisy wears BDG shorts and ballet flats by Bloch.

Danni wears signature red carpet look by Brian Lichtenberg, stilettos by JPG for Melissa, and her own personal DIS Zentai™ step-and-repeat frenemy.

Ultimate pillow fighting is for tuff 'n' buff girls, but with football pads, shin guards, knee brace, and eyeblack, there's literally no harm in getting a head start on tonight's sleepover

When listening to the stereo, laughing with your friends, and sitting at the beach with the ragtop down just isn't telling the world how incredible it is to be young, these message tees will send an added 'Just so you know...' Available exclusively at Joyce Leslie.

For Florida tweens, trending is crucial for friending.

The face, not the waist, is the age-appropriate place for someone's gaze. By wearing her expensive belt/buckle combo around her neck, Veneisy keeps public attention strictly at eye level. Disney's bad girl Barbara takes butterfly clips to the next level with her XXL Cornrows.

Unable to commit, Brandon experiments with mesh tattoo sleeves, board shorts by Old Navy, and baby sunglasses worn as choker.

Nothing says young love like matching labels. These two are soooo D(efinitely) I(n) S(ync)!

Brandon refuses to grow up and chooses to accessorize with baby clothes available at Target. Shirt by American Eagle and Shorts by Hollister.

A flawless tan and tiara are Veneisy's crown and glory. She wears a Forever 21 tank top and RVCA shorts.

Barbara updates her status with massage shoes by DIS.

Only boring snobs hate on flip flops. Veneisy rises above it all with stacked thong sandals by DIS.

Daniella has an early curfew every night this week, so she's packing all her evening sparkle into an afternoon antecedent with sequin boots by Uggs and Jacket by Twenty Cluny.

When you're spending 80% of your summer in the sun and in the water, cutout cutoffs are a nontroversial new style option.

Who needs a bag? Jo Rose's cutoffs got swag.

Carolina is just your typical dancepire.

Leotard, skirt and leg warmers by Capezio.

Credits

By DIS
Hair and Makeup Danielle Weldon for Sally Hansen Natural Beauty Inspired By Carmindy
Featuring Jo Rosenthal, Ashley Handy, Sammi Jack Martincack, Danni Jack Martincack, Carolina Macias, Daniella Hernandez, Barbara Garafalo, Veneisy Andrade and Brandon Colon.
Special Thanks to Clayton Deutsch and the Formalist Sidewalk Poetry Club.

Made possible with the support of Ryan Trecartin.

Sculpting Panty available at After Eight. Control Body Shaper by ShapeFX. Compression Arm Sleeves by 2XU.

Sports Bra by Under Armour. Headband by Nike.

Open Bust Shaper available at After Eight. Bra by ShapeFX.

Footwear by Z-CoiL. Headband by Nike.

U-Plunge Bra and Sleek and Seamless High Waisted Thong by ShapeFX. Compression Leggings by 2XU.

Full Body Compression Body Shaper by Leonisa. FootUndeez by Capezio.

ClimaCool Shorts by Adidas. Body Shaper available at After Eight. Bra by ShapeFX.

Nike Pro Combat Shorts. Padded Compression Sleeve by Adidas. Push Up Smoother by ShapeFX. Footwear by Newton.

Wrap Around Convertible Bra by TriFil. Padded Football Pants by Rawlings.

Butt Enhancing Panty available at After Eight. ClimaCool Sports Bra by Adidas.

Padded shorts by POC. Celebrity Style Body Shaper by Leonisa. 2XU Femme Tri Top. Footwear by Z-CoiL.

Convertible Bra by TriFil. Sculpting Panty available at After Eight. Compression Shorts by Under Armour.

Silicone Panty available at After Eight. Sculpting Shapewear Capri by ShapeFX. 2XU Femme Tri Top.

Silicone Panty available at After Eight. Nike Pro Combat Hyperstrong Shorts. Body Shaper by Leonisa. Footwear by Newton Running.

Under Armour Recharge Energy Legging. Footwear by Newton Running.

Credits

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Proper #4421 Darwin: Clothes:// Debbie: Shoes:// Patricia: Jewelry:// 13007 Sherman Way, CA 91605

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Proper #4176:// 2055 Walden Avenue Cheektowaga, NY 14225

Credits

Pen Bun(ch)
She’s still got to take dictation, tally the coffee order, and finish the breakroom crossword puzzle. And with that damned pen thief in the office, Genevieve can’t let hair her down yet.

Inverted Security
In a city of 9 million people, public vs. private ownership of space and property can get blurry. Whether he’s coming or going, Hugh announces THIS IS MINE AND YOU CAN’T HAVE IT without saying a word.

Edible Apps
Steve Jobs’s lifestyle design revolution is moving off the iPhone and into our diets. We spotted this user turning her heel insert into a mid-day snack, giving even her offline productivity a boost.

2D Wireless Communication
Sandrine doesn’t want to be lost in the shroud. She wants everyone in the café to know that she’s not only appropriately modest but utterly modern. And with a Bluetooth-printed hijab, that signal’s never been stronger.

High-Slit Suit
Middle management’s got Genevieve steaming mad, but she just takes a sip of water and cools down with a cross-garment slit. It’s non-verbal venting that says it all.

Previewwear
Lil Pito thinks a hat might be a good fit for him but can’t risk mussing up his signature hairstyle. Instead, he puts his look in preview mode with a wireframe cap.

Business Active
Kim doesn’t let her multitasking hit a plateau. She makes a mile out of every moment with her integrated jogging suit suit.

Watch Chokers
Wristwatches have taken a backseat to cellphones as the standard timepiece, but Felix swears the watch isn’t dead yet. He puts his money (under) where his mouth is by wearing his Rolex as a choker.

Information Sharing Underwear Jewelry
Another emerging trend is networked undergarments. Elisa’s privacy setting is more open than others’, but even her most unmentionable data is encrypted and embellished.

Daytime Debutante
Ruth downplays eveningwear by wedding her fleece hoody with a formal ballgown. It’s the perfect way to make an entrance into (and exit from) polite society.

Public Works Fitness
Everyone’s pissed about the MTA fare increases, but did you know your dollars are facilitating the popular pastime of fitness pole dancing? Melanie’s got a leg up on this developing trend.

Nipple Anonymity
It may be freezing everywhere, but erect nipples are nobody’s business. Midori wears her conservatism front and center with flower-shaped nipple masks.

Syncessories
The phones may be ringing off the hook, but Mauricio holds it together with a synchronized scrunchie and tie, pushing the (stuffed) envelope on business casual while remaining dresscode compliant.

Spa Anywhere
New York is driven by workaholism, and more and more of its citizens are getting their rejuvenation whenever and wherever they can. Helene takes refuge in public with candles, a terrycloth robe, and massaging spa slippers—because she deserves it.

Bare Belting
Even in the dead of winter, Heidi wants to show off the body she’s worked so hard to attain. Here she strips belting to the bare essentials while enjoying a latte (skinny, of course).

Yoga Fingers
As a busy executive assistant, Geraldine’s most valuable asset are her hands, so it’s vital that they get the therapy and care they need. By wearing yoga fingers, her dainty digits can say “namaste” all day.

Belted Bloated Layering
Keeping warm in New York requires extreme layering. Here Alberto wears two pairs of jeans, four beanies, and three jackets. He shows us who he is deep inside by getting waisted in a studded belt.

In Bed Outside
Dora’s desperate for warmth but committed to staying underdressed. She layers a Slanket under her skirt suit. With a cellphone in hand, it’s the next best thing to telecommuting!

Credits

In order of appearance Genevieve White, Hugh Reed, Sandrine Francois, Lil Pito, Kim Sheridan, Felix Burrichter, Elisa Goodkind, Ruth Graca, Melanie Cuccia, Midori Komatsu, Mauricio Alfaro, Helene Verin, Heidi Jïeun Jouet, Geraldine Visco, Alberto Cortes, and Dora Budor

Special thanks to Nespresso SoHo Boutique and Starbucks Coffee